do it!Elkman wrote: ↑Thu May 03, 2018 9:18 amI can, but haven't done many at all. I have plans to do both takedown and full length eventually.Greg Felty wrote: ↑Thu May 03, 2018 8:28 am Looking good Tom.Just out of curiosity do you ever make recurves?
My very first bow I made was a takedown recurve. I have an old Browning Safari 1 sitting here that a guy wants me to duplicate for him. He wants it to be heavier. Plus it looks like it is about to break. He doesn't trust Ebay. He also doesn't want another one with issues. I will be modifying the way it was build so the issues that came up with this one hopefully won't happen again. I am thinking of doing the build here also. Heck maybe even the form build.
Elk Seeker longbow build
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Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
Nothing clears a troubled mind like shooting a bow.
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Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
X3 !!!
Just to let you know you've got another lurker (and drooler) here.
Thanks for the build-a-long.
John
Just to let you know you've got another lurker (and drooler) here.
Thanks for the build-a-long.
John
"Though our outer nature is wasting away, our inner nature is being renewed day by day,"
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
Tip overlay epoxy is all cured. Pulled from the clamps.
Next, back to the oscillating spindle sander or the edge sander where I take off the excess epoxy and give them a little more shape.
Then I use my little gauge to mark where I want the top of the string groove so it lines up with the original string groove.
A little work with a Dremel tool and chainsaw file and I have the new string grooves complete.
Now I can string it up again and check things out.
Here is a few of the longbow braced. It's a little more than it should be. As we all know I can change that next time I re-string the bow.
The string still looks pretty close to center and the tiller is a strong 3/16 positive. I can adjust that when I finish sand the bow. Balance of the limbs still needs to be checked.
Now it's time to layout and cut out the throat and shelf.
.
Next, back to the oscillating spindle sander or the edge sander where I take off the excess epoxy and give them a little more shape.
Then I use my little gauge to mark where I want the top of the string groove so it lines up with the original string groove.
A little work with a Dremel tool and chainsaw file and I have the new string grooves complete.
Now I can string it up again and check things out.
Here is a few of the longbow braced. It's a little more than it should be. As we all know I can change that next time I re-string the bow.
The string still looks pretty close to center and the tiller is a strong 3/16 positive. I can adjust that when I finish sand the bow. Balance of the limbs still needs to be checked.
Now it's time to layout and cut out the throat and shelf.
.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
Now it is back over to the old bandsaw.
I start my cut for the shelf about 1/8" strong from where I want it. I angle the cut to meet at the center line where it meets the shelf line.
I start my cut for the shelf about 1/8" strong from where I want it. I angle the cut to meet at the center line where it meets the shelf line.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
I then cut out the rest of the site window and then the throat of the grip.
If your wondering what the clamp and block are doing, they are allowing me to keep the bow flat and steady. A little leg I guess you can say.
If your wondering what the clamp and block are doing, they are allowing me to keep the bow flat and steady. A little leg I guess you can say.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
Nice! Goodbye bandsaw blade.
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
No, not really. This blade is one of those Carbide tipped Lennox Tri-Master blades. They hold up pretty good when cutting glass and carbon fiber. They better when you have to pay $130 for one!
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€
Re: Elk Seeker longbow build
After rough cutting the riser shape, I take it back to the edge sander where I start rough sanding it down close to my desired shape. As far as I can with that piece of equipment.
Then I change the spindle on the Spindle Sander. I put the one inch spindle in.
Now with the 1" spindle, I can get into the throat and refine the shape even more.
.
Then I change the spindle on the Spindle Sander. I put the one inch spindle in.
Now with the 1" spindle, I can get into the throat and refine the shape even more.
.
Calling Elk - Awesome! !€