Poor boy arrows for squirrels
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This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
The end of the foot piece ready to be installed on the other piece
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
I like elmer's white glue. Try to get some glue in the split and on the cut surface of the foot piece.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
Shove the foot piece into the split shaft leaving about an inch from going all the way.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
Now wrap some cheap electrical tape below the split before you shove the foot to the bottom of the cut. Years ago they used string but my cousin came up with using electrical tape and it works so much better. This will help keep the shaft from splitting. It will probably split a little anyway but if it's well saturated with glue it won't hurt anything.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
Now wrap the tape very tightly around the shaft to hold everything together. I leave a gape in the tape to save on electrical tape and it lets the glue dry easier. After you are done with the tape, sight down the shaft and do any straightening needed. Then let it dry.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
Once dry, remove the tape and plane off the wings, file, sand, varnish, and you're done. Once you do some, you will have about ten minutes in an arrow not counting drying time.
Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
I forgot Carpdaddy, you ask about the points we use. I certainly don't want to sound like a know it all and everyone has their own opinions on squirrel points just as they do for broadheads but I like field points for wood arrows or a blunt with a small blade pinned or soldered in the end of it. Aluminum or carbon small diameter field points stick to badly in the tree limbs. We hunt mostly the large fox squirrels and if your arrow doesn't stay in the squirrel after you hit it, it will probably get away wounded. The wood arrow points will usually penetrate enough to stay in the squirrel but it is tapered such that it doesn't stick in trees to badly. The blunt with a blade works well also. A plain blunt arrow is fine for finishing the squirrel off if needed. The judos are just for stump shooting. They will rarely stay in a squirrel and are terrible about sticking in tree limbs.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
That's great Shootalot; thanks for sharing that. I would think that the split portion would split apart or bust with the taper going into it but evidently it works with the tape assisting. So you just plane off the spread apart part or wings down to the shaft size. Makes sense but I'm guessing it takes a little practice. Does this effect spine much?
- Shadowhntr
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
Great post! I have taken for granted the wedge would have to seat to the end of the split in the opposite side. I always wondered how that could be done. I sure wish I could have you coach me first hand...this is a skill I could really put to use! Thanks for posting, I may try to struggle through the process and see if I can get it.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
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Re: Poor boy arrows for squirrels
First of all, I agree most of us waste way too much time dreaming about poking sticks into deer when we could be out rustling up rabbits, squirrels pheasants and the like! Thank you for sharing your thoughts. I couldn't agree more!
Second, thanks for the photos on 'how you do it'...they make it so much more understandable. I'm looking at a half dozen of my custom cedars that I had written off as 'wall-hangers'...now I'm thinking of repairing them for small game blunts!
Lastly, this thread should be a sticky. Anyone disagree?
Second, thanks for the photos on 'how you do it'...they make it so much more understandable. I'm looking at a half dozen of my custom cedars that I had written off as 'wall-hangers'...now I'm thinking of repairing them for small game blunts!
Lastly, this thread should be a sticky. Anyone disagree?
Aim small, miss small!