Carpdaddy wrote:As long as you are sharing your findings as you go. That way I get to learn without actually doing.
I don't get it.
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This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
This area strictly for arrows. Building, flight or broadhead flight.
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Re: I don't get it.
Aim small, miss small!
- Shadowhntr
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Re: I don't get it.
This way, you can get a loose idea if the shafts are even close to what is needed. It keeps you from breaking shafts that fly sideways from being so far out of your spine needs. You may not be needing that shaft, but someone can use it...but not if it's broken. I think this is far more important for those who tune bare shafts.
Besides...if you ever end up cresting up some arrows for someone and you can't tune them with the bow and shooter, it's nice to know you are sending the right spined arrows to them.
Besides...if you ever end up cresting up some arrows for someone and you can't tune them with the bow and shooter, it's nice to know you are sending the right spined arrows to them.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
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Re: I don't get it.
Now that you mention it, before I get too far along I need to bareshaft these things before I trim the length.
Aim small, miss small!
Re: I don't get it.
I'm no expert but I'd be hesitant to bare shaft wood arrows. I've never done it at the advice of others, rumor has it that the shaft could break. I've always paper tuned my wood arrows. I think it's more time consuming but in the end it's given me piece of mind knowing that things are all tuned up and matching.
Also having someone watch the flight of the arrows helps. They can see if the tail is flying high, low, left or right. Just my two cents.
-Jeremy
Also having someone watch the flight of the arrows helps. They can see if the tail is flying high, low, left or right. Just my two cents.
-Jeremy
- Shadowhntr
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Re: I don't get it.
Jeremy, take it from someone who has literally tuned hundreds upon hundreds of wood arrows. I've bare shaft tuned every last one of them. If you've done simple homework in knowing about where the spine needs to be per head weight there is literally no difference in tuning wood bare shaft then any other material. Simply start no more then 10 yards and do your best in matching spine per head weight. As you get the shaft closer to tune, begin moving back a few yards at a time.Using that method ive not broken a shaft while bare shaft tuning in almost 30 years. I say this just for information sake.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
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Re: I don't get it.
Isn't that what they call a "disclaimer?"...Shadowhntr wrote: I say this just for information sake.
Aim small, miss small!
- Shadowhntr
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Re: I don't get it.
Captainkirk wrote:Isn't that what they call a "disclaimer?"...Shadowhntr wrote: I say this just for information sake.
Well I didn't want him Thinking I was scolding or being mean!
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.
Re: I don't get it.
Thanks for sharing your experience. I appreciate the advice. I've just avoided doing so at the advice of others and not wanting to break shafts. Especially after they've been all prettied up!
-Jeremy
-Jeremy
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Re: I don't get it.
Understandable. In theory, you should be bareshafting BEFORE doing all the fancy cresting and fletching.J. Holden wrote:Thanks for sharing your experience. I appreciate the advice. I've just avoided doing so at the advice of others and not wanting to break shafts. Especially after they've been all prettied up!
-Jeremy
Aim small, miss small!