Minwax Polycrylic

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Captainkirk
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Minwax Polycrylic

#1 Post by Captainkirk »

Thumbs up!
I just full-length dipped a half-dozen without using a squeegee at the top of the dip tube; the poly came out quite thick, glossy and smooth, very low odor and dried very quickly. I dipped right over my cap dip and cresting, fletching tape adhered very well after it dried overnight and I'm very happy with the results. This method uses a lot more poly than the gasket (or squeegee) method but multiple coats are not needed. I used a wallpaper tray as a drip tray and was able to suck up must of the run-off with a syringe and squirt it right back in the can before it began to set. Being water-based, it cleans up easily from the dip tube and drip tray in the laundry sink. Polycrylic is available in flat, semi-gloss and glossy depending on your preference.
Highly recommended by this guy! :D
Aim small, miss small!

Crazynate
Posts: 444
Joined: Tue May 23, 2017 9:54 am

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#2 Post by Crazynate »

I use the same stuff. Love it.
Goodnight Chesty Wherever You Are.

Captainkirk
Site Admin
Posts: 12787
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#3 Post by Captainkirk »

Crazynate wrote:I use the same stuff. Love it.
Do you dip & drip or squeegee it off with a gasket?
Aim small, miss small!

Crazynate
Posts: 444
Joined: Tue May 23, 2017 9:54 am

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#4 Post by Crazynate »

I only use it for protection and gloss over my dip. I also have dipped full length carbons in it too. Works great. I used to use the Sherwin Williams poly but this is just as good and cheaper.
Goodnight Chesty Wherever You Are.

Captainkirk
Site Admin
Posts: 12787
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#5 Post by Captainkirk »

For clarification, fellers...the "dip & drip" method involves just inserting the stained, capped and crested arrow into a tube filled the poly all the way up to the nock junction, then slowly drawing it out and hanging it over a drip tray, allowing the excess to run off the pile (point) end. I was afraid it would be too thick, or bumpy, or uneven, but, nope! Works outstanding and leaves a nice thick coat probably several thousandths thick. I would have no qualms shooting these arrows in a heavy rain, if the feathers were treated properly.
Aim small, miss small!

Longbowfanatic
Posts: 251
Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:41 am

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#6 Post by Longbowfanatic »

I've been using polycrylic for awhile and like it as well. The only difference in my approach is that I sand the shafts with 0000 steel wool in between dippings.

Captainkirk
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Posts: 12787
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#7 Post by Captainkirk »

Longbowfanatic wrote:I've been using polycrylic for awhile and like it as well. The only difference in my approach is that I sand the shafts with 0000 steel wool in between dippings.
If you are using several dippings, how thick is your final coat?
Aim small, miss small!

Longbowfanatic
Posts: 251
Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:41 am

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#8 Post by Longbowfanatic »

I usually dip them three times before cresting, then three more times after cresting. I sand in-between the first three coats. After cresting, I no longer sand.

Captainkirk
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Posts: 12787
Joined: Tue Aug 26, 2014 8:19 pm

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#9 Post by Captainkirk »

Wow, gotta be three feet thick!
Aim small, miss small!

Longbowfanatic
Posts: 251
Joined: Fri Sep 08, 2017 10:41 am

Re: Minwax Polycrylic

#10 Post by Longbowfanatic »

Captainkirk wrote:Wow, gotta be three feet thick!
I'm always trying to over achieve! LOL. How many coats do you use? My 60-65 shafts end up about 650 grains with a 30.5" BOP shaft and 190 grain broadhead.

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