FOC or Front of Center

[Shadowhntr]

You posted right when i did apparantly. ..check prior post.

[Captainkirk]

OK, thanks!

[Shadowhntr]

Kirk, remember, ,,,, those spines are for a near 300 gr point. But its gonna take near a 300gr point to get FOC up around 20%-22%.

Also, the extra inch of draw you have is going to add 2-3 pounds of draw weight, so you are really shooting a 47- 48 lb bow, not 45lb. That also translates your Tamerlane to being a 37-38 lb bow.....pretty darn close to 40lbs. I know a multitude of guys on TG that have taken massive bull elk with 42 lb bows cleanly through....im thinking your Tamerlane set up with 600 gr arrows, and 20% Foc is going to see your broadhead sticking out the other side every time on whitetail. That would put you hunting with your favorite and most accurate bow for you.

I can tell you, for 46lb-48lb bows, a full length 2117 aluminum XX75 or equivelant Gamegetter will get you somewhere around 20% foc, and 650+ gr overall weight, if using between a 250-260 grain head. We used 5 gr washer weights to help fine tune and get more weight for my boys set ups.

I dont want to overwhelm you, but part of the equation to seeing consistent deep penetration, (the ashby way) is the broadhead style. A long, lean 2 blade head, with a working ratio of 2.7% (3.0%) is the pinnacle, in a single bevel edge, with a smooth, long tapering ferrule, and no vents in the blade. Some fine examples are Tuff head, Grizzlys/Kodiak, Abowyer (brown bear), Tusker,....and the such like.

[Dan]

FOC can get complicated if you let it. A huge amount of arrow shafts, point weights, adapters, footings, arrow lengths and spines. I got kinda lucky when I set up my first bow/arrow for hunting. I had a 60 pound bow so figured I needed a 600 gr arrow, so I got the heaviest arrows at the bow shop and got an a field point test kit from 3 rivers and got the best flight with a 200 gr point. Looked through the available broad heads and adapters and found the 160 gr Grizzly el grande with 42 gr adapters would work and were cheap at the time. I ended up with a high foc, fairly heavy, single bevel set up before I even knew it was a good thing and I'm still using a very similar set up.

[Shadowhntr]

Wow Dan! I wish my journey to EFOC and deep penetrating arrows would have been like your experience! I seem to have to learn everything the HARD (headed) way... I dont need to mention how fortunate you are in that!

[Dan]

Yep, I lucked out and didn't even know it till I ran into Ashby's reports.

[Captainkirk]

My luck doesn't come in that particular flavor.
Guess I have a busy summer coming.

[Old Shortstop]

I don't get real wound up about FOC itself. I utilize it more on carbon arrows than I do with wood or aluminum, primarily to get my overall arrow weight up to where I like it. Most of my wood tip weights are 160 and my aluminums are 175. That puts my arrows in the 550-560 range with my 50-53# bows 595-625 for my 54-60# bows. My 500 carbons have 50 grain inserts in the shafts and 200 grain tips. My 400s have 50 grain inserts and 250 grain tips. That puts my carbons in the same weight ranges as my woods and aluminums. The only flight differences I see are in trajectory once I get beyond 30-40 yards. The higher FOC carbon arrows hit a bit lower than my aluminums or woods.

I would never shoot that far on unwounded game, but my practice sessions include longer shooting so I see the differences. As I noted in the training/practice forum, the long range shooting makes me learn the trajectories, makes shorter shooting seem much easier and in the event I have a wounded animal stop at 40 yard or more I am quite confident I can get another arrow in them and hopefully shorten a blood trail.

D.P.