Bareshaft a new set of arrows.

[Cody2306]

Hey guys. I'm about to Bareshaft a new set of arrows. I normaly would shoot a Bareshaft then look for nock left and cut some then shoot again. Now I'm reading that's the wrong way to do it.
I'm reading now your suppose to shoot a few Bareshaft and a few Fletched and get them to group together. So...
1) what's wrong with the old way?
2) if your shooting Fletched as well do you just use the inserts without gluing so you can pull them out and cut the shafts shorter for tune?
3) do any of y'all still use the old way?

[Cody2306]

Oh wait just answered my number 2) . Just use ferr-l-tite glue so I can meltnand pull the insert out if needed to trim.. Just wasn't sure if itbwould work on carbon

[Graps]

I have never tuned that way.
I bare shaft and see where the nock is.
Too many traditional archers now days over complicate things.

[Cody2306]

Nice so the old way is fine.. I haven't noticed anything wrong with the looking for nock way. But figured I'll ask y'all pros!

[Longtrad]

I think the argument against bareshafting by nock orientation alone is 3 fold

1: a shooters form needs to be consistent enough that the shafts will behave the same shot after shot. little change ups in form and especially release can alter nock orientation and have you chasing your tail.

2: The shaft smacking against the rising and giving weird results like false weak readings

3: Unless you are shooting into new foam, inconsistencies in the target medium can alter the direction of the shaft since the arrow will take the least path of resistance.


I have not found any of these to be huge problems, and I think most of them can be overcome by shooting several times and looking for a pattern rather than just cutting your arrow after one shot.

Shooting bareshafts along with fletched is cheap and easy I do it as well am done doing a standard bareshaft test. I have found I sometimes need to raise my nock point a little once I get feathers on the arrow

Edit: man what a mess, I typed all that on my phone without proof reading.

[Shadowhntr]

I watch, or have someone watch the bright colored nock while its in the air to see how it's behaving. I depend very little on how the arrow strikes the target because of the reasons Longtrad already stated. I do not use the grouping together of bare shafts and fletched shafts alone for tuning for one main reason. When I'm done bare shafting, the fletched shafts will always go where I'm looking just as the bare shafts did, because they are tuned. As Long trad explained, the best way to allow for mistakes of release when bare shafting is to shoot 15 or even 20 times. You will find that the shaft will react a certain way for the majority and the rest may react somewhat differently with the human flaw factor entering in. It's very simple....establish what it's doing by going with the majority of "like" readings. Once you have the bare shaft flying straight the majority of the time, you tell me how the fletched shafts will not go in the same fasion, provided the fletching is not bouncing off something. If it is, that alone will change the point of impact causing fletched shafts to hit different then bare shafts.. In that case, actual arrow tuning should cease, and the fletching TIMING position should be addressed. Once fletching TIMING is addressed on a fletched arrow that has been bare shaft tuned from the beginning, the point of impact will be the same with either like bare shafts or fletched shafts. Far too many people confuse the problem of fletching timing and position, with a poorly tuned shaft. So they wind up tuning the fletched arrow to fly as straight as possible with the fletching problems still existing unawares to the shooter.
Taking the right approach from the very start, I have never NOT had fletched shafts shoot spot on after bare shaft tuning is complete, and fletching timing addressed if need be. Physics will not allow any other outcome.

To keep from getting false readings of shaft/shelf deflection, start the nock point well low. Little at a time raise it until the shaft is flying reasonably straight (up and down direction wise) instead of severe nock high.....

FYI, low nock point or high nock point will cause a high arrow nock situation, because of the shelf deflection factor in the low nock point case. Also, for many people, a little bit of nock high may never be able to be tuned out....this varies person to person because of shooting styles. If you are one of the unlucky few, don't sweat it, you'll never notice with good fletching....trust me.

[Cody2306]

Thanks for the info guys