Tradhunter - Traditional Archery Bow Hunting Forums

Will do that makes sense. It will be 6-8 weeks before the bowyer finishes my bow (Maddog Prairie Predator) so cant post target pics for awhile.

Very nice! I had to Google your bow, never heard of it before. Real nice looking work!
If it helps, I shoot a '70's Bear Grizzly, 45# @ 28". Arrows are 400 spine Victory VFORCE 1 carbons (what can I say, the price was right!). Draw is about 30", so I leave the arrows uncut at their as-shipped 31.25". Currently they have the factory Blazer vanes (eew) on them, right-hand helical. I plan to reflect with feathers once all of them are missing at least one vane. Points are 150 gr field points for targeting. I also have 150 gr Magnus stingers (2 blade) and a set of Centaur Big Game (180 gr) heads on adapters. They're a single right-hand bevel.
Hope this is helpful; it's based on the excessively small amount that I know
Keep your eyes on this forum: I won my Centaurs in a giveaway draw here (yet to review them, though I can arrest to the fact that they're straight and scary sharp)!

Bow Bender , sorry about Saturday , I feel like I left you hanging .
My cell phone isn't working on here so good for some reason but I just figured out a trick that has me going again .
I knew these guys would jump in and help you out .
Like I said , there are a great bunch of guys on here .
Just hope you can take a jab in the ribs once in a while , but not one person on here would ever intentionally hurt you .
Hope you will stick around and let us know when you learn something new .
Keep shooting and keep in touch . Graps

Cookies, don't put it off, change to feathers, I think you will be even more satisfied.

Bow Bender wrote:Thanks for the replies and the links. This is very helpful. After reading all the comments it made me aware of other things i did not know of, very interesting and alot of great comments. I guess i have some reading to do.

I really don't want to get into right/left thing if i don't have to.......

Well, you will have to choose one or the other....you need some helical be it left or right as opposed to straight feathers on a trad bow. Again; it doesn't matter which, but straight fletched arrows do not perform as well on hunting weight bows at distances over 20 yards or more from what I've read.

What ever is on sale at the time works best. I make my own and friends give me both wings, therefore I use both.

Cookies wrote:Very nice! I had to Google your bow, never heard of it before. Real nice looking work!
If it helps, I shoot a '70's Bear Grizzly, 45# @ 28". Arrows are 400 spine Victory VFORCE 1 carbons (what can I say, the price was right!). Draw is about 30", so I leave the arrows uncut at their as-shipped 31.25". Currently they have the factory Blazer vanes (eew) on them, right-hand helical. I plan to reflect with feathers once all of them are missing at least one vane. Points are 150 gr field points for targeting. I also have 150 gr Magnus stingers (2 blade) and a set of Centaur Big Game (180 gr) heads on adapters. They're a single right-hand bevel.
Hope this is helpful; it's based on the excessively small amount that I know
Keep your eyes on this forum: I won my Centaurs in a giveaway draw here (yet to review them, though I can arrest to the fact that they're straight and scary sharp)!

Thanks for the info it helps alot. you mentioned point adapters, thats what i want to do on my arrows but never seen them used on wood.

Captainkirk wrote:

Bow Bender wrote:Thanks for the replies and the links. This is very helpful. After reading all the comments it made me aware of other things i did not know of, very interesting and alot of great comments. I guess i have some reading to do.

I really don't want to get into right/left thing if i don't have to.......

Well, you will have to choose one or the other....you need some helical be it left or right as opposed to straight feathers on a trad bow. Again; it doesn't matter which, but straight fletched arrows do not perform as well on hunting weight bows at distances over 20 yards or more from what I've read.

Captainkirk, thanks more good info i didnt know

About point adapters:
You only really need them if you're using modern arrows (carbon,aluminium,etc.) And intend on using glue-on heads like the Centaurs, which are designed to be glud onto tapered wood arrow shafts.
You can't really taper a carbon arrow, so you glue in adapters for screw-in points.

Cookies wrote:About point adapters:
You only really need them if you're using modern arrows (carbon,aluminium,etc.) And intend on using glue-on heads like the Centaurs, which are designed to be glud onto tapered wood arrow shafts.
You can't really taper a carbon arrow, so you glue in adapters for screw-in points.

Ditto.
Most wooden arrows utilize glue-on tapered nocks, piles (filed points) and broadheads. While they do make adapters to glue on for threaded broadheads, I find it an unnecessary step for wooden arrows plus it adds weight to the tip.