Making wood arrows

[Shadowhntr]

To me that's a very accurate statement.

[Longbowfanatic]

Yup....for some folks Fred was the beginning of trad....others Howard Hill. Still others think Ishi is that line....and still others Otzi was the beginning....

It always depends on what we perceive trad to be.

Me? I don't even think about it much. I do what I do because its what I like doing and it's very effective and all I need. I enjoy watching the arrow hit...something sight bow users dont experience often. I've always knew no matter what bow or arrows I use...im staying with 20 yards or less for whitetail. That being the case I can use a wide variety of weaponry and projectiles. I'm the limiting factor in this thing not my weapons. I don't see how or why people of today hold this trad thing up on a pedestal as if it's some thing only attainable if you are special. Not very long ago it was all there was and was considered the normal average thing to do . Now people believe it to be some guru thing with a touch of wizardry. I love trad, but in the end it's a chosen path that should feel normal and natural . It's worked for thousands of years...how can I think I'm anything but normal when my life of trad is but a speck in archery time.

X2

[Longbowfanatic]

So, with all the above information, I think we have all come to an agreement (to answer the question posed earlier) that no, dead-nuts spine, weight and straightness are not 'necessary' requirements for the wooden hunting arrow shaft. Naturally, tuning to the 'nth' degree can't hurt...but with shots being limited to 20 and under, any reasonably straight, reasonably spined and weight-matched arrow with a sharp broadhead will get the job done...within the range limitations of a non-sighted, bare bow of legal hunting weight. Is that a pretty fair assumption and agreed upon? If not, please elaborate as to WHY not.

Well said. I'm in total agreement.

[Captainkirk]

No arguments?

[Longbowfanatic]

No arguments?

Not from me, unless you want to talk politics!

[Captainkirk]

OK, then. That's settled.

For the record I've tried shooting some grossly mis-matched arrow/bow combos...like this one:

The bow: Pearson Super-Jet, 35# @ 26, not cut for shelf at all:

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The arrows: Easton XX75 2216's made for a 60-70# compound bow:



Distance: 20 yards


These arrows should not even fly straight, let alone hit the target anywhere near each other.

[Shadowhntr]

Lol! I'd like to see a slow motion video from behind, of them suckers coming out of that bow!

[Longbowfanatic]

OK, then. That's settled.

For the record I've tried shooting some grossly mis-matched arrow/bow combos...like this one:

The bow: Pearson Super-Jet, 35# @ 26, not cut for shelf at all:

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The arrows: Easton XX75 2216's made for a 60-70# compound bow:



Distance: 20 yards



These arrows should not even fly straight, let alone hit the target anywhere near each other.

Yup. That's been my experience too.

[Longbowfanatic]

I will say that I wasn't sure there was anything to argue about. I thought we were in agreement all along.

[Captainkirk]

I will say that I wasn't sure there was anything to argue about. I thought we were in agreement all along.

We were, yes...
Some folks on other forums will dissect an arrow like it was a murder victim, fussing and fiddling down to the last grain of weight, perfectly matched spine and straightness...
Again, there is nothing wrong with this approach. There IS something wrong with trying to terrify newbies into hysterics by telling them they totally messed up by buying 500 spine instead of 400 spine and they should toss them in the garbage...fairly prevalent on some of the target sites. You learn as you go, so I've found...but heck, you could probably shoot a rake handle with a slot cut in it and do OK.
Helping folks attain the best arrow flight and performance is one thing. Upbraiding them for their choice is another altogether. That has nothing to do with this forum though.