Bare shaft tuning method

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Shadowhntr
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Bare shaft tuning method

#1 Post by Shadowhntr »

***A REMINDER FROM CARPDADDY- NEVER BARE SHAFT TUNE WITH BROADHEADS

I posted this in the campsite on the single bevel broadhead thread, but thought it would be easier to see and find here.

There is more then one way to do things for tuning, and the list is long on ways to gain or lose how the spine of/or an arrow reacts. I'll only cover for now, the main portion of tuning arrows for spine by bare shaft tuning. The process is a simple one that is easy to spell out, but takes some time and patience to act out.

First we must decide on point end weight for which we will set a goal to dial in at. Next, we must choose a shaft or a range of shafts that look to give us good spine and thus flight, for our required end weight, bow poundage, and shaft length/draw length +1 inch. The best way to do that is with an arrow spine chart. I have found 3Rivers spine chart the most accurate for trad bows of all types, and has the 3 major types of shaft materials listed.

Make sure the bow is set at a proper brace height, and the nocking point is set 1/2'' high from the arrow rest material with a bow square, at least for now, before beginning. We have 2 conditions to worry about. Left and right and up and down. We will deal with one first, then focus on the other. The left and right we will tune by arrow spine for the bow and point weight. Up and down, will require the moving of the nocking point on the bow string up or down.

Once you have your shaft, it will need the addition of the end/point of desired weight, and a nock, but no fletching. It's important to do without fletching, because that way, the bare shaft has no help in recovering from spine being weak/stiff, and we can then interpret that condition, by the arrows reactions. If the shaft fly's nock to the left the spine is too weak, and the shaft needs shortened to stiffen spine. If the Shaft becomes to short before it straightens its flight and yet it remains weak, you must move to the next shaft up in spine, or reduce your point weight. If the nock of the arrow shaft fly's to the right, the shaft is to stiff. The way to help a stiff shaft, is to either have a longer one which makes it more limber, add more point weight, or move down in spine to the next weaker shaft on the chart.


For any arrow, the spine will get stiffer as the shaft is shortened, so we will want to start long with a full shaft, and ease into the correct spine and thus good flight, hopefully before the shaft becomes to short. Hold the bow as vertical as possible, so there is no miss reading the arrows action from canting the bow. Draw and shoot the shaft into a soft target 8 or 10 yards away. Note the arrows actions, and shoot several times making sure to get a true reading and good releases. If the arrow is already stiff with nock flying right, add point weight, or go to the next weaker spined shaft. Hopefully, it's weak. If it is weak with nock flying left, shorten the shaft. I like to take 1/4'' off at a time, unless I have good indications that i will find good flight a few inches away, then I will take 1/2" off the shaft. Just remember, you can always take more off, but you cannot put it back on. Once you cut the shaft, put the point back on, and go shoot it in the same manner as before. Do this whole process until you get the side to side flying straight to the target.

Now.... If the arrow is flying straight for left and right, but is nock high, slightly move the nocking point down a little at a time, and test shoot with each movement. Once the shaft is flying straight...you are there.

There are other issues that come into play that can cause erratic flight with fletched arrows caused by deflection and improper fletching timing, but we will cover that if it's a problem, at a later date.

Poor releases, may cause a never ending nock high, so beware of release issues that may never get better with tuning.
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.

Carpdaddy
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Re: Bare shaft tuning method

#2 Post by Carpdaddy »

Well explained, I would only add the simple warning for those who might be new to archery. Never ever try to bare shaft using Broadheads!!

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Shadowhntr
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Re: Bare shaft tuning method

#3 Post by Shadowhntr »

Good point CD, glad you thought of that!
The element of surprise can never be replaced by persistence.

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Graps
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Re: Bare shaft tuning method

#4 Post by Graps »

Carpdaddy wrote:Well explained, I would only add the simple warning for those who might be new to archery. Never ever try to bare shaft using Broadheads!!
:shock: like Carpdaddy said !
"Maybe the truly handicapped people are the ones that don't need God as much." ~ Joni Eareckson Tada

Captainkirk
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Re: Bare shaft tuning method

#5 Post by Captainkirk »

Thanks for that, Jason. Well explained, simple but to the point.
Aim small, miss small!

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